{"id":3817,"date":"2024-07-12T18:49:37","date_gmt":"2024-07-12T18:49:37","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/battrang.museum\/?post_type=journal&p=3817"},"modified":"2025-06-10T15:00:48","modified_gmt":"2025-06-10T08:00:48","slug":"my-fantastical-days-in-hunza-pakistan","status":"publish","type":"journal","link":"https:\/\/battrang.museum\/en\/journal\/my-fantastical-days-in-hunza-pakistan\/","title":{"rendered":"MY FANTASTICAL DAYS IN HUNZA PAKISTAN"},"content":{"rendered":"
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My fantastical days in Hunza Pakistan<\/span><\/h3>\r\n[\/vc_column_text][vc_empty_space height=”1rem” el_class=”hide-mobile”][vc_empty_space height=”3rem”][\/vc_column][vc_column width=”1\/2″ offset=”vc_col-md-5 vc_col-sm-offset-2″][vc_column_text]\r\n

Just as most people would be when taking into account the conflicts this country was going through at time, I was filled with doubts and hesitation before my trip to Pakistan last April. And yet, upon entering Hunza, a secluded valley in Northern Pakistan, alongside Gilgit-Baltistan, all these worries that had once troubled my mind were quick to disappear, leaving me with nothing but deep fascination and incredible astoundment for the majestic wilderness of this land.<\/span><\/p>\r\n

Along with Peer, a born and bred Hunzakuch as my guide throughout this trip, our two-day journey was spent passing through numerous police checkpoints, as well as various areas controlled by Islamic extremist groups.<\/span><\/p>\r\n[\/vc_column_text][vc_empty_space height=”6rem”][vc_column_text]\r\n

*<\/h3>\r\n

*<\/span>Peer Jahangir Qurban<\/a><\/strong> (which is also his personal blog\u2019s handle) is an independent tour guide. Our journey exploring Hunza Valley planned by Peer was a very unique and interesting experience.<\/span><\/h5>\r\n
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Words: V\u0169 Chi Lam<\/strong>\r\nPhotos: V\u0169 B\u00e1ch L\u00e2m\r\n<\/strong>English Translation: T\u1ed1ng M\u1ea1nh<\/strong><\/h5>\r\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][vc_column width=”1\/6″ offset=”vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-2 vc_col-sm-offset-1 vc_col-xs-offset-4 vc_col-xs-4″][vc_row_inner][vc_column_inner offset=”vc_hidden-lg vc_hidden-md vc_hidden-sm”][vc_empty_space height=”2rem”][\/vc_column_inner][\/vc_row_inner][vc_single_image image=”3947″ img_size=”full”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_empty_space height=”6rem”][vc_empty_space height=”6rem” el_class=”hide-mobile”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=”yes” content_placement=”middle”][vc_column width=”2\/3″ offset=”vc_col-md-offset-2 vc_col-md-3 vc_col-sm-offset-2″][vc_row_inner][vc_column_inner offset=”vc_hidden-sm vc_hidden-xs”][vc_empty_space height=”10rem”][\/vc_column_inner][\/vc_row_inner][vc_column_text el_class=”no-indent”]\r\n

In sharp contrast to the disputed lands of Pakistan, Hunza Valley is a haven for tourism.<\/span><\/h3>\r\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][vc_column width=”2\/3″ offset=”vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-6 vc_col-sm-offset-2 vc_col-xs-offset-1 vc_col-xs-10″][vc_row_inner][vc_column_inner offset=”vc_hidden-lg vc_hidden-md”][vc_empty_space height=”4rem”][\/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner width=”2\/3″ offset=”vc_col-md-6 vc_col-xs-8″][vc_empty_space height=”4rem”][vc_empty_space height=”4rem” el_class=”hide-mobile”][vc_single_image image=”3829″ img_size=”full”][\/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner width=”1\/4″ offset=”vc_col-md-2 vc_col-sm-offset-1 vc_col-xs-offset-1 vc_col-xs-3″][vc_single_image image=”1194″ img_size=”full”][\/vc_column_inner][\/vc_row_inner][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_empty_space height=”14rem” el_class=”hide-mobile”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column width=”2\/3″ offset=”vc_col-sm-offset-2″][vc_empty_space height=”4rem”][vc_column_text]\r\n

The valley is located at an altitude of roughly 2.500 metres above sea level, hidden behind layers of snow-coated peaks and cut through by a flowing river of jade. This region has its own culture, language, and ethnicity. To set foot in Hunza is to set foot in a land of historic fortresses, perennial glaciers and stupendous hospitality. Additionally, this place is also hailed as \u201cThe Valley of Eternal Youth\u201d, thanks to the pure sources of water, clean atmosphere and the healthy lifestyle of the locals.<\/span><\/p>\r\n[\/vc_column_text][vc_empty_space height=”4rem”][vc_empty_space height=”4rem”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_empty_space height=”2rem”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_section el_class=”.grid-collection”][vc_row content_placement=”bottom”][vc_column width=”5\/12″ offset=”vc_col-sm-offset-1″][vc_single_image image=”3833″ img_size=”full”][\/vc_column][vc_column width=”5\/12″][vc_single_image image=”3835″ img_size=”full”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row content_placement=”bottom”][vc_column width=”5\/12″ offset=”vc_col-sm-offset-1″][vc_single_image image=”3980″ img_size=”full”][\/vc_column][vc_column width=”5\/12″][vc_single_image image=”3865″ img_size=”full”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_empty_space height=”8rem”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=”yes” content_placement=”middle”][vc_column width=”2\/3″ offset=”vc_col-md-4 vc_col-sm-offset-2″][vc_column_text]\r\n

Fairy Meadows<\/strong><\/p>\r\nFairy Meadows is situated 100 km from Hunza, where the three mountain ranges of the Himalaya, Karakoram and Hindu Kush intersect. Alongside being one of the most favored mountain climbing sites in Northern Pakistan, the meadows here is also the ideal spot to overlook Nanga Parbat, the ninth tallest mountain in the world.<\/span>\r\n

I was a bit concerned to know that it would take a two-hour-long jeep ride on the second most dangerous path in the world to arrive at Fairy Meadows. That road steeply twists and turns, with its one side being the mountain cliffs and the other a seemingly bottomless abyss, which doubtless gave me quite a fright. Peer reassured me that there were only 100 drivers in the world licensed to drive on this track, so of course they would have to be extremely well-versed with the obstacles on this perilous road.<\/span><\/p>\r\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][vc_column width=”2\/3″ offset=”vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-3 vc_col-sm-offset-2 vc_col-xs-offset-1 vc_col-xs-10″][vc_single_image image=”3839″ img_size=”full”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_empty_space height=”8rem”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column width=”2\/3″ offset=”vc_col-sm-offset-2″][vc_empty_space height=”4rem”][vc_column_text]\r\n

As I continue my journey to Fairy Meadow, I decided to join Sher Ullah, the horse rider and his stead Badal when Peer saw fit to finish the next portion of the course on foot (research regarding the residents of Hunza has shown high mobility to be key to their longevity and good health). During that two-hour horse ride, I had the chance to marvel at the natural beauty of my surroundings, as well as listening to the tales of Sher Ullah. At 20 years old, he dreams of building his own horse staple and exploring the world. Perhaps that is why his horse is named \u201cBadal\u201d, meaning \u201cchange\u201d in Urdu.<\/span><\/p>\r\n[\/vc_column_text][vc_empty_space height=”4rem”][vc_column_text]\r\n

There were only 100 drivers in the world licensed to drive on this track, so of course they would have to be extremely well-versed with the obstacles on this perilous road.<\/span><\/h3>\r\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_empty_space height=”2rem” el_class=”hide-mobile”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_empty_space height=”8rem” el_class=”hide-mobile”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row content_placement=”bottom”][vc_column width=”5\/12″ offset=”vc_col-sm-offset-1″][vc_single_image image=”3847″ img_size=”full”][\/vc_column][vc_column width=”5\/12″][vc_single_image image=”3845″ img_size=”full”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row content_placement=”bottom”][vc_column width=”5\/12″ offset=”vc_col-sm-offset-1″][vc_single_image image=”3843″ img_size=”full”][vc_empty_space height=”2rem”][vc_column_text]\r\n
Horse Rider Sher Ullah and his trusty steed Badal<\/span><\/h5>\r\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][vc_column width=”5\/12″][vc_single_image image=”3949″ img_size=”full”][vc_empty_space height=”2rem”][vc_column_text]\r\n
The horse ride to Fairy Meadows<\/span><\/h5>\r\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_empty_space height=”2rem”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row equal_height=”yes” content_placement=”middle”][vc_column width=”2\/3″ offset=”vc_col-md-4 vc_col-sm-offset-2″][vc_column_text]\r\n

During my stay at Fairy Meadows, whether inside the plain wooden accommodations, strolling through the pine forest, beholding the Nanga Parbat peak, or just sipping coffee and chatting with the locals, I could feel a deep sense of serenity, almost as if time had ceased to move in this place.<\/span><\/p>\r\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][vc_column width=”2\/3″ offset=”vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-3 vc_col-sm-offset-2 vc_col-xs-offset-1 vc_col-xs-10″][vc_single_image image=”3977″ img_size=”full”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column width=”2\/3″ offset=”vc_col-sm-offset-2″][vc_empty_space height=”4rem”][vc_column_text]\r\n

The Prenential Glaciers<\/strong><\/p>\r\nAccording to statistics, Pakistan has over 7.500 glaciers, more than anywhere in the world, apart from the North and South Poles. Of the thousands of glaciers, the black glacier of Hopper and the white glacier of Passu are easily the most exotic tourist attractions. Our long walk past the mountains to gaze upon these grandiose frozen rivers and feel the coursing ground water under their ice caps was an experience I could never forget. Since his childhood, Peer has had many exploits exploring the region\u2019s glaciers. In his enthusiastic retelling, it took two hours to overcome Passu and reach the meadows on the other side, including Patundas and Green Meadows. Although the road to these destinations may be incredibly treacherous, their tradeoffs is that you get to marvel at the view of over 15 mountain peaks with elevation at 6000m over. It would not be far-fetched to say the rivers and the summits here have left a deep imprint in my memory.<\/span>\r\n\r\n[\/vc_column_text][vc_empty_space height=”4rem”][vc_row_inner][vc_column_inner width=”1\/2″ offset=”vc_col-xs-6″][vc_single_image image=”3853″ img_size=”full”][\/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner width=”1\/2″ offset=”vc_col-xs-6″][vc_single_image image=”3855″ img_size=”full”][\/vc_column_inner][\/vc_row_inner][vc_row_inner][vc_column_inner width=”1\/2″ offset=”vc_col-xs-6″][vc_single_image image=”3863″ img_size=”full”][\/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner width=”1\/2″ offset=”vc_col-xs-6″][vc_single_image image=”3907″ img_size=”full”][\/vc_column_inner][\/vc_row_inner][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_empty_space height=”2rem”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column width=”2\/3″ offset=”vc_col-sm-offset-2″][vc_column_text]\r\n

The Fortresses of Solitude <\/strong><\/p>\r\n

Surrounded by majestic nature, Altit and Baltit Fort are two of the most prized constructions of Hunza. Altit has been in existence since the eleventh century with its unique structure characterized by Hunza and Tibetan cultures. As for Baltit Fort, it was built during the eighth century, with Buddhist influence in its architecture, notably featuring intricate lotus-like carvings. In 2004, Baltit was recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage site.<\/span><\/p>\r\n[\/vc_column_text][vc_empty_space height=”4rem”][vc_single_image image=”3871″ img_size=”full” alignment=”center”][vc_empty_space height=”4rem”][vc_single_image image=”3963″ img_size=”full” alignment=”center”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column width=”2\/3″ offset=”vc_col-sm-offset-2″][vc_empty_space height=”4rem”][vc_column_text]\r\n

The Villages Hidden behind the Mountains<\/strong><\/p>\r\nHiding behind the majestic mountain ranges of Hunza are 20 tranquil villages. Noteworthy of which is Passu, famous for its picturesque sceneries, including the prized Passu Cones, the festive town of Gulmit and Eagle\u2019s Nest –\u00a0 the highest viewpoint of the valley, from which one can see all of the renowned surrounding summits in their entirety, such as Rakaposhi, Lady Finger or Golden Peak. Another noteworthy attraction of these villages is the bridge that connects Zarabad and Hussaini, which is also the world\u2019s second largest suspension bridge with its length reaching 200m. Furthermore, as the season changes, so do the villages of Hunza, each undergoes a magical metamorphosis according to the blooming of flowers. As the blossoms of Hunza stretch along the side of the mountains, this place transforms into a paradise on Earth, subliminally beautiful and indescribable with words.<\/span>\r\n\r\n[\/vc_column_text][vc_empty_space height=”4rem”][vc_column_text]\r\n

* <\/span><\/h3>\r\n
The ideal time to visit Pakistan and Hunza Valley is in spring (when the flowers bloom during March and April) and autumn (when the leaves change color during September and October)<\/span><\/h5>\r\n
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The second largest suspension bridge Hussaini, with its length spanning 200m<\/span><\/h5>\r\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner width=”1\/2″ offset=”vc_col-xs-6″][vc_single_image image=”3877″ img_size=”full”][\/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner width=”1\/2″ offset=”vc_col-xs-6″][vc_single_image image=”3887″ img_size=”full”][\/vc_column_inner][\/vc_row_inner][vc_row_inner][vc_column_inner width=”1\/2″ offset=”vc_col-xs-6″][vc_single_image image=”3901″ img_size=”full”][\/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner width=”1\/2″ offset=”vc_col-xs-6″][vc_single_image image=”3879″ img_size=”full”][\/vc_column_inner][\/vc_row_inner][vc_row_inner][vc_column_inner width=”1\/2″ offset=”vc_col-xs-6″][vc_single_image image=”3883″ img_size=”full”][\/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner width=”1\/2″ offset=”vc_col-xs-6″][vc_single_image image=”3891″ img_size=”full”][\/vc_column_inner][\/vc_row_inner][vc_row_inner][vc_column_inner width=”1\/2″ offset=”vc_col-xs-6″][vc_single_image image=”3897″ img_size=”full”][vc_empty_space height=”2rem”][vc_column_text]\r\n
The children of Ghulkin doning the quilt cloth by LeapArt.<\/span><\/h5>\r\n
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A landslide in 2010 devastated the village of Attabad, causing the local geology to drastically shift, which gave the water surface of Attabad lake its surreal shade of blue<\/span><\/h5>\r\n
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Borith – a freshwater lake in the middle of the long stretching meadows surrounded by the high peaks. Borith Lake Hotel & Resort – a familiar lakeside hotel to Vietnamese tourists. If you are not accustomed to the local cuisines here then luckily for you, all of the cooks can easily make you a chicken stew with potato and carrot in the Northern Vietnam cooking style. Perhaps it was a regular Vietnamese tourist who taught the hotel\u2019s cooks their recipe.<\/span><\/h5>\r\n
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The Meetings at Ghulkin<\/strong><\/p>\r\nPeer led me back to Ghulkin, his home village, which is notably surrounded by glaciers. Ghulkin held an instrumental role in the historical development of Hunza, where people are highly educated and the authorities here care deeply for the people and nature. Our lunch consisted of goat curry, mashed potatoes alongside white rice and naan made by Peer\u2019s mother. The hospitality of the residents here frankly leave me speechless emotionally.<\/span>\r\n\r\n[\/vc_column_text][vc_empty_space height=”4rem”][vc_empty_space height=”1.5rem”][vc_row_inner][vc_column_inner width=”1\/2″ offset=”vc_col-xs-6″][vc_single_image image=”3921″ img_size=”full”][\/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner width=”1\/2″ offset=”vc_col-xs-6″][vc_single_image image=”3955″ img_size=”full”][\/vc_column_inner][\/vc_row_inner][vc_row_inner][vc_column_inner width=”1\/2″ offset=”vc_col-xs-6″][vc_single_image image=”3984″ img_size=”full”][vc_empty_space height=”2rem”][vc_column_text]\r\n

Peer\u2019s parents and his nephew<\/span><\/h5>\r\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner width=”1\/2″ offset=”vc_col-xs-6″][vc_single_image image=”3933″ img_size=”full”][vc_empty_space height=”2rem”][vc_column_text]\r\n
The daughter and niece of Rehmat Ullah Baig in LeapArt\u2019s \u00c1o D\u00e0i, with the handbag and jewellery of Hanoia.<\/span><\/h5>\r\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner][\/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner][\/vc_column_inner][\/vc_row_inner][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column width=”2\/3″ offset=”vc_col-sm-offset-2″][vc_empty_space height=”4rem”][vc_column_text]\r\nIn Ghulkin, I was given the opportunity to meet Mr.\u00a0 Rehmat Ullah Baig, the last Ghizek player of Hunza, which is a traditional musical instrument similar to the violin. To enjoy the enchanting sound of the Ghizek that he himself made is, in my opinion, a very rare experience. My most memorable experience during this trip has got to be when we took the souvenir photo of Mr.\u00a0 Rehmat Ullah Baig\u2019s family with the cultural products that I brought from Vietnam, which consist of the Dragon Stool of B\u00e1t Tr\u00e0ng Museum Atelier, the \u00c1o D\u00e0i by LeapArt, and handbag and jewelleries of Hanoia. In my humble opinion, this was a fascinating cultural exchange.<\/span>\r\n\r\n[\/vc_column_text][vc_empty_space height=”4rem”][vc_single_image image=”3990″ img_size=”full” alignment=”center”][vc_empty_space height=”2rem”][vc_column_text]\r\n
The Last Ghizek Player and the Dragon Stool of B\u00e1t Tr\u00e0ng Museum Atelier.<\/span><\/h5>\r\n
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In my days in Hunza, I got to rest my mind and unwind as I enjoyed the slow-paced life of the people here. Having spent ten days away from my phone and the Internet, and truly seeing the world as it is, I finally understand why one would wish so dearly for a chance to revisit Pakistan, and surely, I believe, there will also be people who, as I did, would overcome\u00a0 their personal prejudices alongside all of the challenges ahead in order to gain a new valuable experience here in this country. Throughout this journey, although I feel like nothing more than a spec before this land\u2019s overwhelmingly majestic wilderness, the breathtaking beauty captured in my senses will surely never fade.<\/span><\/p>\r\n \r\n

\u00a0for \u0110\u1eb9p Magazine,<\/strong> issue 287, July\/2024<\/h5>\r\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][vc_column width=”2\/3″ offset=”vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-3 vc_col-sm-offset-2 vc_col-xs-offset-1 vc_col-xs-10″][vc_single_image image=”3861″ img_size=”full”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_empty_space height=”2rem”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column width=”2\/3″ offset=”vc_col-sm-offset-2″][vc_empty_space height=”4rem”][vc_empty_space height=”4rem”][vc_empty_space height=”1.5rem”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][\/vc_section][vc_row][vc_column][vc_empty_space height=”6rem”][vc_empty_space height=”6rem” el_class=”hide-mobile”][vc_single_image image=”907″ img_size=”medium” alignment=”center”][vc_empty_space height=”6rem”][vc_empty_space height=”6rem”][vc_empty_space height=”6rem” el_class=”hide-mobile”][vc_empty_space height=”6rem”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]
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Four Women Designers in Dialogue with Ceramic Heritage<\/h4>\n \n\t
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